03/15/2008

Understanding your Dog



                         

       
       
       
       
       


Categories: Dogs
posted by jury at 10:00 AM | Leave Comment [0] | # Link to this entry
03/15/2008

Puppy School



 

1. At what age should I take my puppy to puppy school and why is it important?

The short answer is 8 weeks providing there has been no outbreak of the usual diseases in your area.
This is the optimum age and is before your puppy picks up all the bad habits which can be harder to break.
If this is impossible you should study the articles below and train at home but make sure you take advantage of the socialising you will gain from puppy school as soon as possible.  Do not miss out.

The following article was published in the August-September 2006 Newsletter of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia.  (more articles to follow) By Oliver Beverly, C.L.E.A.R. Dog Training, Brisbane

   

There is a bewildering amount of conflicting advice given by various breeders, pet stores, trainers and vets as to the ideal age to take a puppy to puppy school. Unfortunately the result is often that confused owners postpone making a decision and their in next to no time adolescent dogs end up missing out and not being taken to puppy school at all.

A medical argument from some breeders and vets is that if we take a puppy too early to puppy school s/he

could get a fatal disease, such as distemper or parvo virus. Therefore it is best to keep our puppies in cotton wool, quarantined and isolated and, various people advise, not even allowed on the ground outside till two weeks after their last vaccination.

The counter argument is from other breeders, pet stores, vets and trainers who take into consideration both the medical and behavioural risks involved. They look at the bigger picture, weigh up the pros and cons and conclude that the latter risks far outweigh the former. By the time a puppy is 16-18 weeks old s/he is almost a teenager and many undesired habits may have formed and it is much too late for puppy school!

Dr Lyn Upton, from Upton and Upton Veterinary Surgeons in the Brisbane Bayside suburb of Capalaba points out there is no absolute guarantee anyway that a puppy kept in the house and/or backyard for the first four and a half months of life could not get parvo virus from the shoes of a stranger or even a family member entering the house and garden.

Due to the generally widespread use of vaccines, in most areas around Australia there are far fewer instances of diseases than in the past. At Dr Uptons state of the art and very busy modern surgery puppies attend puppy school from eight weeks onwards. Dr Upton has not seen a case of distemper for many years, so the medical reason to keep a puppy isolated is less valid than it may have been in years gone by.

Dr Debbie Calnon from Melbourne, a Delta accredited Canine Good Citizen Instructor, a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia and a Veterinary Behaviourist (a vet with additional university qualifications in animal behaviour), says, "I strongly agree with Dr Upton that the closer the puppies can be to 8 weeks of age for puppy school the better. The only exception may be in a local area that has perhaps had an outbreak of parvovirus, etc. Even then, with proper client education I'd still be recommending 8 weeks."

It is almost 100% guaranteed that a four and a half month old puppy that has not been appropriately socialised to people, other puppies, things (e.g. skateboards, bicycles, horses, fire engines, etc), as well as a variety of surfaces and different places is likely to grow up developmentally retarded. More importantly the puppy is likely to have poor bite inhibition to people.  Other less serious but equally unnecessary behavioural problems also often develop and thousands of adorable fluffy eight week old puppies never make it to their first birthday.


Dr Ian Dunbar, one of the world's leading Veterinary Behaviourists and founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, once said that it takes only two days from arriving in his/her new home for a puppy's death warrant to be signed. Many owners have not become sufficiently educated and, through no fault of their own, are doing many things wrongly that lead to inevitable behavioural problems.

The main reason to take a puppy to a first-rate puppy school is for education and preventative maintenance for both human and dog. If owners know exactly what to look for, what to expect, how to communicate and what to do it is likely that they will not make fundamental mistakes.

Puppies will understand strange human requirements and grow up as well behaved adults that fit happily into family life. They will do what is requested first time, act politely around other people and unfamiliar dogs and can safely be taken anywhere. They will be a pleasure to own, are likely to have happy and interesting lives and grow old graciously.

However, without sufficient early teaching during puppy hood and on-going guidance and education during adolescence many juvenile dogs can quickly grow into out of control lunatics. They sometimes pay with their lives for their owners mistakes, including not going to a good puppy school.

For the very reason of knowing how to do things correctly - and what common mistakes to avoid, especially re house training it is crucial that owners, especially first time ones, attend a good puppy school sooner rather than later. There they will obtain correct advice, recommended reading and good puppy class handouts such as those contained in the invaluable puppy school CD recently produced by Dr Calnon.

Research in the USA has shown that the risk of dieing from a fatal disease is 500 times less than having to be re-homed or euthanized because of a socially unacceptable behavioural problem such as house soiling, jumping up, biting, aggression, destroying furniture, being overly excited or generally an out of control adolescent lunatic.

There are an estimated 55 million dogs in the USA. Dr Karen Overall, Head of the Veterinarian Medical School at the University of Pennsylvania, says, 12 million dogs are euthanized every year, 95% of them for behavioural problems. In other words, 1,319 dogs an hour die because many of their owners have been either ignorant or too busy or have not cared enough to give them a head start in life by way of adequate education.

In Queensland, where statistically many more puppies die each year from eating snail bait or getting tick paralysis or cane toad poisoning than from a fatal disease, there is an additional reason not to postpone attending a well run puppy school. Owners have often not been made aware by their breeder, pet store or vet if they have yet been to one of the risks and that they need to take several necessary precautions from day one.

The RSPCA who understand the bigger picture, actively encourage owners to take their eight week old puppies, provided they have had their first injection, to their well run puppy schools where, naturally, all reasonable hygiene precautions should be taken.

 

From your letters:


  I have a nine week Labrador puppy, Max, that I am thinking of taking to puppy school. There are three places that run classes close to where we live. I am not sure which one to take him to. My friend in Brisbane came to you for puppy school and then your follow on course. She said that a good one could really help my puppy but that a bad one can lead to problems. What is the difference and what are the things I should look for before I decide?

Trainers are frequently asked similar questions by people who love their puppies dearly but have little idea as to how to raise them. They are finding that they and their adorable fluffy eight week old pets are unable to cope with the stresses involved in growing up. Many puppies with well intentioned but uninformed owners, or owners who follow outdated information and incorrect or dangerous advice, soon turn into uncontrollable teenagers.

These puppies may wreak mayhem and cause family friction. After the novelty factor wears off the pets become pests. Before long the puppies (even physically and psychologically healthy puppies from a breeder or the $1000+ fashionable designer-dogs) have grown into adolescent hooligans. They end up in the give-away section of the weekend classifieds or on a one way trip to the RSPCA or Animal Welfare League.

When the late David Weston, founder of the Kintala Dog Club in Melbourne, first introduced puppy school into Australia in the mid 1970s he was way ahead of his times. These days the necessity for proper and pleasant  early learning is fortunately much more widely understood. Puppy schools are run all over the country at dog clubs, animal shelters such as the RSPCA, dog training schools and increasingly at many vet surgeries and pet stores.

Traditional compulsive training strategies are on the decline but are still practiced, even at puppy school. Most people long ago realised the inappropriateness of techniques such as alpha rolls and neck scruffing - particularly with puppies. It is widely accepted that taking a puppy early in life to a well run puppy class that uses modern positive methods gives a puppy of any breed a head start to their future life.

However, taking a puppy to a positive class that is poorly run can also result in negative and frightening experiences. Attending such a puppy class can be almost as counter productive as going to an Im Alpha - do it or else! type of class. Both are a recipe for untold future behaviour problems.

A large group of trainers, veterinarians and veterinary behaviourists from around Australia recently attended the three day Terrys Legacy to Oz continuing education seminar held by Sydneys Hills District Kennel and Training Club. The key speaker was internationally renowned dog trainer Terry Ryan from USA, author of numerous brilliant books including her latest Coaching People to Train Dogs.

She said that puppy classes in the USA have changed considerably since they first started there in 1965. She believed that going to a puppy school can be the best thing to happen to a puppy but that it can also be the worst thing.

One of her major objections was that many positive puppy classes in America are being run by people with inadequate qualifications, skills and knowledge. These instructors may be gaining experience but at the same time they are quite likely to be messing up other peoples puppies and doing something that can cause a puppy a great deal of long term harm.

In an unregulated industry where anybody can at any time call themselves the worlds best dog trainer it is a case of buyer beware . If someone has been doing puppy schools for decades, read all the books and manuals, possibly even written one or has a degree in companion animal studies or a certificate in dog training, it does not necessarily follow that they are successfully running a good and sought after puppy school.

When making enquiries to find a high-quality puppy school a sensible owner will take the time to find out who is highly recommended. They will then do their own research and, if necessary, be prepared to drive further afield than to the nearest vet surgery or dog club.

With a prepared check list of questions it is easier to reach a correct decision. Most of the things to look for are answered by simply watching a class beforehand. If that is not practical the next best thing is talking to several people who have been there about their impressions.Some suggestions for a check list include but are not limited to the following:

1.          Is the person who answers the telephone or greets people at the counter of the pet store, dog club, training school or vet surgery - knowledgeable, friendly, interested and caring? (If the replies are vague, evasive or inadequate score zero out of twenty. Persevere but begin thinking of alternatives.

2.          Who takes the puppy classes? Do they have an excellent reputation? Do they have good communication and people skills? How widespread is their experience and what are their areas of expertise? Do they listen to the owners needs and expectations? Do they find out pertinent details about the puppys background and lifestyle prior to the beginning of the first class? Are they welcoming? Do they have a sense of humour? Can they control a class fairly and impartially? Do they keep in touch and follow up throughout the course and after it has finished?

3.          What are their qualifications? How experienced are they at running well attended puppy classes? Are they interesting and able to keep peoples attention? Are they knowledgeable about all aspects of canine development and many different breeds? Have they raised a puppy or bred a litter of puppies? Do they have a genuine love of and affection for dogs?

Score ten if they are a Level lV vet nurse with additional accredited qualifications in behavioural dog training or a similarly qualified breeder or experienced trainer using gentle modern training methods. Score zero if they are an inexperienced vet clinic receptionist, a junior instructor at a dog club or a salesperson at a pet store. They may never have owned a dog and know only a little more than the average first time pet owner. Dont let them practice on your puppy!

4.          How many puppies are there per instructor? Are the classes too big - more than eight - or too small - less than four? Does the instructor have an assistant? Are the assistants well-informed, friendly and helpful? Do they wear appropriate clothing and footwear for dog training? Are they in uniform? Do they look professional?

5.          How and when do puppy to puppy interactions occur? At the beginning of each class or later on and only as a result of calm behaviour? Is the first item on the agenda a general (and often disastrous) free for all socialisation with all puppies playing together? Are barriers or play pens used to separate the puppies? How many puppies are allowed to play with each other at any one time? What happens if one of the puppies is a bully?  What allowances are made for shy puppies? Is puppy play frequently interrupted with the puppy coming back to the owner?

6.          Are the puppies calm and settled and stress free throughout the class? Are the owners alert and interested? Are they all puppies and people having fun and happy to be there?

7.          Is it possible and is it easy to observe a puppy class in order to observe first hand before deciding to attend it? (If the answer is negative, for any reason - e.g. lack of space, not wanting other people to copy their methods or ideas! score zero.

8.          Where are the classes held? Church hall, school gymnasium, basket ball court, sports field changing rooms, vets waiting room, vets car park, groomers parlour, pet store warehouse, industrial shed or, if in the tropics, on the beach under a coconut palm? Are the premises, whether indoors or outdoors or a combination of both, clean and safe for puppies? Is there adequate space, of at least three meters, between puppies or are they crammed into a small waiting room? What are the various surfaces that the puppy will be able to experience tiles, concrete, carpet, rubber, sand, grass? Does the class setting provide a welcoming and good environment for learning? Is it free of interruptions?


9.          When does the next course start? Is it a fixed week class or a flexi week one? What happens if there are not enough puppies for the class to be held? Are people put on a waiting list till there are sufficient numbers? By then it is often too late and the puppy is too old and misses out, so what contingency plans are there to immediately refer them to an associate/colleague or competitor elsewhere? Do they run follow on courses? If not do they provide a list of suitable places using modern training methods where their puppy school graduates can go?


10.  What happens if the owner or the puppy is ill and cant come to one or more of the classes? What happens if the instructor is ill and cant come? What make-up class, wet weather or refund policies are in place?


11.  How is the course structured? Is there a syllabus available with course content? Are well constructed lesson plans utilized? What training aids or props are used to teach new concepts? Are weekly home training sheets provided with specific suggestions and exercises to do at home?


12.  When do owners have an opportunity to ask questions? How well are they answered? Can owners easily contact the instructor between classes? Is additional information provided to owners during the week by letter,  fax or e-mail?


13.  Are training aids available? Is there a supply of essential items - for instance blue puppy Kongs, car harnesses, treats and really good puppy books such as After You Get Your Puppy or The Ultimate Puppy Tool Kit?


14.  What learning materials are provided or loaned out? A puppy manual? Brochures? Puppy class handouts from a veterinary behaviourist such as those produced by APDT Australia member Dr Debbie Calnon or The First Twelve Months CD produced by Dr Cam Day? Other CDs or DVDs on puppy development? Loan booklets, such as Terry Ryans Take the L.E.A.D. or Puppy Primer?


15.  What do previous owners who have attended puppy classes have to say about their experience at this venue? Are exit survey forms used and available for inspection? Can previous owners be contacted to see how their puppy progressed? Did they enjoy coming? Do they recommend the puppy class to their friends as being good value for money? Would they come again themselves with their next puppy?



Categories: Dogs
posted by jury at 10:00 AM | Leave Comment [0] | # Link to this entry
03/15/2008

Dog Ways



                         

       
       
       
       
       


Categories: Uncategorized
posted by jury at 10:00 AM | Leave Comment [0] | # Link to this entry
03/15/2008

Walk without Pulling



                         

The following article was written by Karin Larsen Bridge, president of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia and part owner and instructor at Get S.M.A.R.T (Successful Motivation And Reward Training) dogs  in Sydney - a dog training school  specializing in positive training classes for pet dogs. She is a Delta Accredited Canine Good Citizen (TM) Instructor and writes and lectures  frequently on dogs and dog  related issues such as positive training methods, behavioural problems and responsible pet ownership. 

[This article first appeared in Dog's Life magazine, in 2005, and is reproduced here by kind permission of the author]

For many people, teaching their dog to walk on a lead without pulling is the hardest task they will ever face as pet owners.  Even after years of walking together some dogs owners are left wondering - why does my otherwise intelligent dog not get this?

The answer is both simple and complicated! The dog keeps pulling because in his opinion, he is rewarded for it.  Pulling provides the opportunity to smell more, explore more and best of all get to the off-lead park or bush track sooner than walking at your pace by your side. This huge perceived reward outweighs any amount of choking, jerking, tugging or cajoling you can dish out. 

  Add to this a state of high arousal caused when adrenalin floods your dogs nervous system at the mere sight of your walking shoes or lead (and continues as you walk out into the excitement of the world beyond your door) and you begin to understand why walking nicely on a lead can be such a persistent problem. 

  Some of the solutions people have tried are:
 

Dont use a lead.  Problem: illegal and unsafe.
Dont walk the dog sadly an option many people settle for.  Problem: a bored, obese, poorly socialized dog who engages in nuisance behaviours such as barking and digging.
Physically forcing your dog into heel position by holding a short lead or jerking your dog into position.  Problem: Requires physical strength on your part, may take a long time to take effect and may cause damage to your and/or your dogs neck, back or shoulders.
There must be a better way right?

Lets consider again the two reasons WHY dogs pull and work back to how we might be able to convince the dog that what he wants exploration- is best achieved by doing what we want walking without pulling on a lead.
 

The Neva Eva Ever!  policy
 
This policy involves removing the reward for pulling by never, ever, EVER walking forward while there is tension on the lead and collar.  This policy works if implemented faithfully right from the start ideally from the first time you attach a lead to your new puppy.

  Neva Eva for a puppy

Start by attaching a lead to your puppy and stand still.  If your puppy struggles take no notice, if the lead remains slack with no tension on the collar, instantly reward with praise or treats.      You are really teaching your puppy to accept the fact that when he is attached on a lead he is restrained.    Next, start to move slowly around the back garden.  If the lead tightens stop immediately and act like a post dont move at all and dont shorten the lead - just wait.  When the lead slackens, immediately reward with praise and move forward.  Your puppy should be learning that pressure on the collar means stop while no pressure on the collar means go sadly this is the opposite of what most dogs learn. 

  If all goes well, repeat in the front garden and then on the footpath just outside your home.    If your puppy is initially reluctant to walk on the lead just wait dont give in to the temptation to pull first.  This will worry a puppy who is already unsure of the lead , teach him that a tight collar means go and will engage his natural opposition reflex to pull the other way.  The aim is to learn to walk together as a six legged team not begin a lifelong game of tugof-war.   

  Neva Eva for the older dog

  The exact same technique as outlined for a puppy can be used to re-train an older.  However as the older dog has had a lot of rewards for pulling, the process can be expected to take a lot longer. The biggest problem is that most owners find it difficult to never ever walk forward with tension on the lead. This means that the dog is intermittently rewarded for pulling keeping the behaviour strong.  A few exercises can help your dog to understand what you want faster:   

The Target Game
  Start with your dogs bowl and some really tasty treats and/or a person your dog loves standing at one end of the garden.  Show your dog the treats/person and get him really excited - this is your target.  Now move back with your dog on lead to a starting line some distance away.  Start moving toward your target if the lead tightens immediately turn around and move back quickly to behind your start line.  Talk to your dog and praise him whenever the lead is loose even if at first this is only when you are moving back toward the starting line.  Repeat until you can walk all the way to your target without the lead tightening at all - then release your dog to the treats and praise.  Your dog is learning the valuable lesson that the fastest way to get to what he wants is by maintaining a pressure free lead connection. 

He Who Was First Shall Now Be Last
  The dog who pulls out in front of you assumes that he knows where you are going.  Turn this around by immediately changing direction.      At first your dog will probably charge past you and assume leader position again say steady and assertively change direction until he who was first has become last again.  Repeat until your dog realizes that youre the only one with the map!  This is a great exercise for teaching your dog that you ARE relevant not just a go-between from house to park.  Adding the word steady before each turn will teach your dog there is no point in charging ahead as you are about to change direction and eventually can be used as a general cue to slow down should he forget his manners and start to pull ahead in the future.

  Teach a Sweet Spot

  Create a sweet spot at your left leg where good things happen. The name for this sweet spot is close or heel.    Whenever your dog is near this sweet spot say Yes! and dispense a treat as though from your left knee.  If your dog moves too far ahead, stop, call him back and again reward from your left knee.  You want the dog to know there are good things at your end of the lead not just out in front where the good smells are. 

Lets Stay Calm
  The second contributing factor to pulling on a lead is that most dogs are in a high state of arousal at walkies time.  With all that adrenalin rushing around their bodies it is hard for them to walk as slowly and calmly as we would like them to.  To reduce pulling behaviour it is preferable to start with as calm a dog as possible.  How you prepare for your walk can contribute to, or reduce, the level of arousal even before you step out the door.

Move slowly and speak quietly.  Sit somewhere away from the exit door and wait for your dog to come to you and sit before putting his lead on.  If he gets up before his lead is attached, stop, look away and wait again.  Like in the Target Game your dog will learn that the fastest way to get his lead put on and get out the door is to sit at your feet and wait.
 
Wait for a sit at the exit door
Step out through the door before your dog
Sit once more as soon as you reach the footpath.  Wait until the leash is loose and your dog is looking at you to see what is going to happen next praise and start walking remembering to use one of the strategies outlined above if the lead should start to tighten.
  Helpful Hints

              Be proactive - whenever tension creeps into the lead do something about it immediately.    Apply short vibrations to the lead to keep it alive, change direction, or call the dog back to you but never allow the lead to become a tug-of-war rope between you.

              Walk as briskly as your comfort level allows. 

              Some of the worst cases of pulling result from dogs who are walked to an off leash area everyday.  Their owners become merely vehicles they drag daily to doggy paradise.  Turn this around by alternating long street walks with no pot of gold at the end with being driven to the off-lead park for a free run. 

              Teach restraint in different situations. If you have taught your dog right from a puppy that there will be times when you must restrain him for baths, grooming, vet examinations etc. he will be more likely to accept restraint on lead as well.  Practice gentle, handling and restraint in as many and as varied situations as possible.

Choosing the right equipment
  Never before have there been so many options on the market designed to make walking easier for you and your pet.  No one choice is right for everyone so if in doubt seek the advice of an experienced trainer.  Some of the options include:

    Collars

The most important feature of a collar is that it is comfortable and will not slip off or over your dogs head.  Normal buckle collars or martingale collars with a limited slip feature are amongst the safest and best. 

  Leads

For recreational walking, I recommend a lead of approximately 2 -3 meters in length.  This length of lead will allow your dog to reach the smelly bits of trees and lampposts without pulling you off the footpath yet can be easily managed and shortened to allow people to pass or for crossing roads. To achieve the same amount of freedom, a small dog will need a longer lead then a big dog as much of the length will be taken up simply reaching down to the collar. This extra length will often resolve minor pulling problems immediately. 

  Head Halters

Head halters brought a fresh approach to the problem of pulling when introduced many years ago. By placing your dogs head in a halter he is really only able to use his weaker neck muscles against you rather than the full strength of his shoulder and back muscles.  The handler is thus able to use a much lighter touch to direct and control the dog. There are many styles, designs and makes of head halters on the market today and the trick is to find the one that best fits your dog. Generally the head halter should fit snugly around your dogs face and be easy for you to take on and off.   

  Despite their effectiveness many people still resist using a head halter because they believe:
 

It may be confused with a muzzle and makes the dog look mean.
The use of a head halter is somehow cheating or must only be a temporary measure.   
Head halters are too difficult to fit and use
Dogs dont like them.

 
While it is essential that you receive good advice on how best to introduce and fit a head halter, when properly used they remain the most effective choice if:

you havent got time to methodically implement a neva eva  programme
you own a very strong dog
you own a dog with a long history of pulling
your own strength is limited in some way e.g.  a bad back
you would like children to easily walk the dog
behavioural problems make greater control a safety issue.
  Harnesses

Although harnesses were designed to allow a dog to pull more efficiently, there is some evidence that some dogs seem to pull less when wearing them unfortunately its a case of try it and see.  A new harness on the market The No-Pull Harness by Kumalong is designed specifically to combat pulling by connecting the lead at the dogs chest.  The dog is less able to lean into the harness and create resistance.  The advantage of harnesses in general are that they are  readily accepted by both dogs and  owners and are an excellent choice for small dogs or dogs with sensitive necks or spinal problems. 

  Double Ended Leads

Double ended leads are often recommended to be used in conjunction with either a head halter and collar, a head halter and harness or a harness and normal collar.  They provide added safety and control and can spread the pressure of the lead across several points rather than just one. 

  Realistic expectation or impossible dream?

Have you ever taken a bunch of five year olds to McDonalds for a birthday party?  If they had been on a lead do you think they would have been pulling?

Going for a walk would have to be at least as exciting for your dog as going to a birthday party is for kids a high adrenalin, highly rewarding event that comes along just once every 24 hours. 

To expect your dog to walk calmly in perfect heel position is probably an unrealistic expectation however by setting the rules for the walking game employing the Neva Eva policy and making use of sensible equipment choices walking can become a dream run for both you and your dog.

Karin Larsen Bridge 2005

Have you ever taken a bunch of five year olds to McDonalds for a birthday party?  If they had been on a lead do you think they would have been pulling?

Going for a walk would have to be at least as exciting for your dog as going to a birthday party is for kids a high adrenalin, highly rewarding event that comes along just once every 24 hours. 

To expect your dog to walk calmly in perfect heel position is probably an unrealistic expectation however by setting the rules for the walking game employing the Neva Eva policy and making use of sensible equipment choices walking can become a dream run for both you and your dog.

  
   


Categories: Dogs
posted by jury at 10:00 AM | Leave Comment [0] | # Link to this entry
03/16/2008

Dogs Have Feelings Too.
    Dogs have shared our lives for so long that we sometimes forget that they are a different species ,  with a different culture and a very different language.  Today, more then ever before dogs are not free to live a substantially normal doggy life, wandering the neighbourhood freely, socializing with dogs, kids and stay-at-home mums.    Today, if your dog is to feel confident within his human pack,  he needs to learn how to cope with all the restrictions of modern life that go with it      he needs an education.  The education of dogs is normally referred to as training a term which is sometimes erroneously associated with an attempt at punitive robotic obedience.  Good training is the key to developing a mutually beneficial communication system between you and your dog.    A dog already knows how to sit, stand and down, what he doesnt  know are the human names for these behaviours and why he should do them?  Training is the vital link that will help provide these answers to your dog helping him to feel confident in every situation.
   
  Come!
  Stop Jumping

First, realise that this is a natural dog behaviour.  Canine behaviour expert Jean Donaldson says, Dogs are compulsive greeters.  They are pack animals, and their instincts cause
them to be very excited when reunited with pack members after being alone.  Pups lick the mouths of adult dogs in greeting, and to beg for a meal.  Your mouth is high enough off the ground that any dog would need to jump up to get near it.  Many owners encouraged
jumping up when the dog was a tiny, cute puppy, so the behaviour becomes well learned.
You dont need to live with jumping up, but do accept that the dog isnt bad for doing it.
Jumping can be  prevented by totally ignoring the behaviour, and that means removing the strongest reward (your attention) the instant the dogs front feet START to leave the ground.  Immediately turn away, avert your eyes, fold your arms, and walk away silently.  You can
stand in a corner or go into another room, but do not speak to, touch, or acknowledge the dog in any way until it has settled.  Even if the dog jumps against your back, ignore it until a minute after it has given up.  Everyone in the family must do the same thing.  Eventually the dog will stop jumping if it always results in the cold shoulder.  Also, be sure to praise the dog when it comes up to greet you and chooses NOT to jump.
 


Reinforcing Come! as the right choice

ALWAYS associate coming to you with something good. 
NEVER call your dog when it has been bad or you are angry.
 
Your dog will only choose to move into Come position if it ALWAYS is a happy place to be.  Reward your dog every time he checks in with you with praise and/or treats and games.  The best thing your dog can do is to choose to spend time with you.  Every time your dog moves back to see you when off lead acknowledge and reward his attention.  If you need to do something your dog perceives as unpleasant such as putting him outside, going to the vets or having a bath do not call him to you.  Simply go to him and put a lead on with as little emotion as possible.  Some jobs just have to be done but we dont want to reward a joyful Come! with an unpleasant consequence.

NEVER EVER PUNISH your dog for coming to you or for allowing you to go and catch him.  In either case from your dogs point of view he is being punished for being caught not for staying away.  Next time hell be a bit faster and a bit craftier.  If you have to collect your dog you may not feel like rewarding him but try to stay as neutral as possible and simply put the lead on and get over it punishment might make you feel better but it will only set your dogs recall training back immeasurably.  Understand that your dogs behaviour is telling you that you have not yet trained a reliable recall.

 



Categories: Dogs
posted by jury at 10:00 AM | Leave Comment [0] | # Link to this entry
03/16/2008

Aggressive Dog



 

  TEN STEPS TO TREATMENT
Decide the severity of your dogs aggression problem.  If your dog is more of an embarrassment than a physical danger to other dogs, feel free to implement the following procedures.  If your dogs aggression problem has resulted in serious injury to other dogs you will need to see a behaviour specialist for further advice.

 

Accept responsibility for your dogs safety and the safety of other dogs.  prevent rehearsal
Many owners will suggest you let the dogs sort it out or it will do my dog good if your dog tells him off.  While this philosophy may be acceptable for two well socialised dogs with good bite inhibition, it is not going to benefit the dog aggressive dog itll just be more practice and more confirmation of the belief that biting is a good strategy for removing unwanted dogs.  The more your dog rehearses this strategy the more ingrained it will become.  That is why it is essential not to put your dog in a position where he feels the need to aggress. You can help prevent aggressive incidents by being aware of:

Early signs of intent to aggress - every dog will indicate to some extent a preparedness to attack.  The signs may be as subtle as strong eye contact and a slight stiffening of the body to more overt signs such as raised hackles, growling or barking.
By recognizing and reacting immediately to these signs by calling your dog to you or turning quickly away - you can prevent aggressive incidents from occurring.  This is an essential part of re-training that requires good observational skills, concentration and timing.

Your dogs critical distance or space requirement.  Every dog has a distance where he does not react to another dog.  Make certain your dog has enough space around him that he does not feel the need to flight or fight.
 
Use a head halter this will greatly improve your ability to control your dog allowing you to feel more confident and relax.  A head halter is NOT a muzzle however so you need to remember that your dog will still able to inflict a bite if the other dog moves in too close.
 
Train an excellent come response or if in doubt, leave your dog on a light line to ensure that you can always successfully call him to you.  Use a pleasant voice you want the dog to choose coming to you above all else.  A threatening tone is only likely to make your dog hesitate and will increase adrenalin production in an already aroused dog.  A friendly call off will redirect the dog into a new activity without a further adrenalin surge.  Although a reliable come cannot prevent someone elses dog from running over to you, it does give you the option of putting your dog on the lead, holding him while another dog passes or if the other dog  looks suitable, allowing an interaction to take place.  This greatly enhances your ability to manage your dogs aggression.
 
Proactive P.R.    Once your dog is on a lead you have every right to ask the other person to keep their dog a reasonable distance away.  Something like: My dog does not like strange dogs in his face could you please call your dog? If the owner takes no notice, take it one step further.  If my dog is on a lead by my side he shouldnt have to put up with your dog jumping/sniffing at him.  Point out that many dogs see overthe-top greetings as an assault and you would rather not put your dog in that situation.    This puts the onus on the other owner who should be able to call their dog to them.
 
Train alternate behaviours if you want to stop your dog focusing on dogs he doesnt like, you need to provide him with a pleasant, alternate and incompatible behaviour.  Your dog cannot hold a sit stay and eat hot dogs while fighting at the same time.  An even better idea is to train fun behaviours such as a roll over or shake hands. How about a game that you both enjoy?  These exercises will not only improve the general control you have over your dog but will activate serotin production in your dogs brain as the cerebral cortex or thinking part of the brain takes over from the limbic system (adrenalin producing).
 
Change the association - offering your dog a special treat every time a dog approaches and stopping as soon as the dog passes is one way to change your dogs opinion about other dogs.      Soon the arrival of a dog predicts a special treat and focuses the dogs attention on you rather than the dog.
 
Avoid Physical Punishment - shouting at your dog, or jerking on the lead are adrenalin triggers that will produce an instinctive flight or fight response in your dog.  Try to stay cool, calm and collected throughout the treatment process instead. This will enable your dog to engage the cerebral cortex or thinking part of his brain giving him the opportunity to acquire new more desirable behaviours.
 
Be A Dependable Alpha - being the alpha or leader of a pack has nothing to do with dominance it has to do with the ability to provide for the welfare and safety of your pack. The less frightened, annoyed, nervous and tight leashed you are the more you will impress your dog.  The impression you want to give is that nothing your dog (or any other dog) can do, will bother you, for you are quietly but decidedly in control.  Remember most dogs act aggressively because it has proven to be a successful strategy for keeping other dogs away. By applying the strategies outlined above, your dog will learn that he can relax and trust in you to keep him safe. 
There are no quick fixes.

There are no easy or definitive solutions to aggression.  It is important to recognize that a dog that regularly acts aggressively to other dogs is not a dog you may ever be able to relax with at the dog club or park.  The younger the dog the better the prognosis but in most cases the problem can be minimized but not totally eliminated. If you accept the role of cool, calm protector, you will need to carry out your duties diligently, planning ahead for every situation.  Remain watchful and observant at all times ready to step in when and if your dog shows the signs of stress or fear that lead to aggression.  Learn which strategies work best for your dog and apply them consistently.

  Although these dogs may never win a canine congeniality award they are often extremely devoted to their owners and for one reason or another, simply prefer the company of humans to their own kind. 

  Karin Larsen Bridge 2005
  www.getsmartdogs.com.au 

   
  Come!


Categories: Dogs
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